When cleaning a dryer exhaust vent, access the vent from behind the machine and from the exhaust penetration outside of the building, either on the side wall or the roof.

  1. Greet the customer followed by several questions.

  • What concerns, or problems are they having? Taking too long to dry?

  • Do they know if the dryer vent has been cleaned before?

  • Approximate age of the home.

  1. Have them show you the laundry room and any area you may need to access to complete the job. (basement or attic)

  2. Write down the price on your invoice. Have the person sign that they authorize the work to be complete and fill in email address.

  3. Turn the dryer on (no heat). Assess the length of the dryer vent by following it to the exit point. Write the length down on your invoice and determine the percentage of air flow there is coming out of the vent hood. Check again after the vent has been cleaned.

  4. Turn the dryer OFF and UNPLUG. Pull it out far enough so that you can get behind it (be careful, especially if gas). Detach the vent hose from the dryer and attach the vacuum adapter to the vent with the rod and auger brush through the adapter. Fasten with a piece of duct tape. Then connect the hose from the vacuum to the adapter. Turn the vacuum on.

  5. Always wear eye protection and a respirator. Manually rotate the brush inside the vent.  Connect additional rods until you reach the opposite end. Be sure to use a piece of duct tape for each connection you add so they do not come apart inside the vent.

  6. The brush should go through the vent easily. If you encounter a situation where the brush will not go in any further, you may be at the end of the vent. If it is, great! If not, then there must be a blockage somewhere in the line. Try to estimate how far the brush is in the vent and see if there is an elbow or bend in the vent. If there is not a bend, there must be a blockage in the line. Back the brush out and attach the blockage removal tool. Once you have removed the blockage, re-attach the brush and resume cleaning the vent until you have reached the end of the line. The brush can be run from the exit point back to the vacuum as well (never run brush from exit point back to the dryer while exhaust duct is connected to the dryer).

  7. After you are done brushing and vacuuming the dryer vent, disconnect the vacuum and connect the blower to the exhaust. Turn the blower on and go to where the exhaust exits the house and check the air flow.

  8. Turn the blower off and disconnect it from the vent. One last vacuum to clean up any lint and debris that is in the area.

  9.  Inspect the transition hose between the vent and the dryer. Make sure it is up to safety standards and re-connect it to the dryer. Plastic and old foil hoses should be replaced with rigid metal hoses. Explain to the customer the safety hazard present and offer to replace the hose with a new one. A lint alert device can be explained at this time as well.

  10.  Push the dryer back into place being careful not to damage the transition hose. Very important to be sure that the water discharge hose is replaced into the drain.

  11.  Turn the dryer on and go outside to check the post cleaning airflow coming out of the vent. There should be a noticeable difference now that the vent is cleaned out.

  12.  Wipe the dryer and washer with an all-purpose cleaning solvent and a rag.

  13.  Gather up all equipment and tools and take this stuff to the vehicle.

  14.  Prepare your invoice and present it to your customer explaining everything that you did. Answer any questions and be sure to explain that this is recommended to be done on a regular basis, once a year.

  15. Inform the customer that we also offer air duct cleaning (give them the duct cleaning brochure) and if they are interested we can leave them with an estimate.

  16. The customer receives the YELLOW copy of the invoice.



Dress like a Professional

Act like a Professional

Talk like a Professional

You will be Paid like a Professional

  1. The crew leader and helper exit the truck. Bring your tool bag, drill, ladder, invoice, business card and/or Company brochure with you.


  1. Ring the doorbell. Introduce yourself and your helper to the customer and inform them that you are there to clean the air duct system.


  1. Hand the customer your business card and brochure. Ask the customer what their concerns or issue might be and offer some suggestion from the field data report on the invoice; allergies, dust, odors, routine maintenance, etc. Begin to fill out the field service data report section of your paperwork.



  1. Ask the customer if they mind taking you through the house so that you can take a vent count and to familiarize yourself with the layout of the house. While counting the supply and return vents, ask the customer if they would like the bathroom exhaust vents cleaned as well while you are there (the cost is the normal vent cleaning charge of $35 with service. You may also inquire about their dryer vent situation at this time ($99 with service, normally $149).


Take note during this walk through of vent cover screw type, vaulted ceilings, items that will need to be covered with visqueen, pets, small children, etc. (at this time, the helper can begin covering things in visqueen, dropping grills and foaming off vents)


Total up the supply vent, returns, bathroom exhausts and/or dryer exhaust and review the total with the customer. Verbally inform the customer the amount of the job but don’t write the total on the invoice at this time. Have the customer sign the pre-work authorization block confirming they understand the price and agree to that amount.


  1. Have the customer show you where the air handler is and the location of the thermostat. Inform the customer that you are going to do a pre-check of the system prior to starting the work. Check the cooling cycle and write down the return and supply plenum temps to calculate temperature drop across the coil. This number should be between 16 and 25 degrees. Do the same for the heating cycle. If the unit is not operational, advise the customer before starting any work.

This whole process should take about 10-15 minutes. The grills can now be washed. Inform the customer you are going to begin to bring in equipment and clean the air ducts.

  1. Begin to bring in the equipment, set out air hoses and bring in the NIKRO vacuum.


  1. Hook up the large HEPA vacuum to the access cut made in the supply plenum or to the largest vent in the home. The helper should begin to clean the air ducts with the air sweeps or brushes. The same process is done for the return side of the system.


  1. Crew leader should assess the air handler components as part of our complementary inspection – if there are contaminants in the unit, then bring the customer over to the unit and recommend a chemical cleaning.


(Do not work on systems over 15 years old – Recommend replacement)


If the unit is in the attic, take pictures and show the customer. During this time, you should also discuss the supply plenum with the customer (suspect mold, discoloration, damage) and make recommendations (coating, replacement and repair).


Inform them that to properly clean the air handler due to whatever particular contaminants are present, the blower has to be pulled out of the unit and disassembled. There is a motor as part of the blower assembly that cannot get wet. After taking the blower apart you apply a cleaning solution to the housing and blower wheel and hand clean the motor and wires. This gives you access to be able to chemically clean the coil, drain pan and drain line. In some cases, the coil will not be able to be cleaned in place and will have to be pulled. The price varies depending on what process needs to be done (check pricing book or call the office when unsure). Keep the office informed about the job as additional hours are needed if this work will conflict with the rest of the days’ schedule.


  1. If chemically cleaning the AHU, proceed with the cleaning. If not, complete the air-wash, inspect the supply plenum, measure the filter and assist your helper with finishing up the duct cleaning. Make sure to fill out all the information needed about the air handler condition on the field service data report.


  1. Once the cleaning is complete, reinstall the grills and begin to take the equipment out to the van. Be sure to check that the A/C unit works. Collect up the plastic, Nikro HEPA vacuum any last areas and complete the paperwork, making sure all the information that is required is filled out (to include any estimates for items like UV light installation, coating, boot seals, dryer vent cleaning, etc.).


  1. Give the customer our review sheet. Google and Yelp reviews are always needed and to like us on Facebook. The customer receives the YELLOW copy of the invoice.


  1. It is the crew leaders’ responsibility to call the office when the job is complete for any change is scheduling or the next days’ work.



  1. Mix the Benefect as directed.

  2. Use the approved Atomizer as supplied.

  3. With the negative air machine running, fog each supply vent separately.

  4. Do not fog inside of air handler – you will burn up the blower motor.




At a minimum we would like to see them have the air handler disinfected. This will help eliminate mold spores and nuisance dust from the unit as well as bacteria that may be in the drain pan. This service includes:

  1. Air-wash the blower wheel.

  2. Self-rinse coil cleaner on the coil. Light brushing. Rinse with plain water.

  3. HEPA vacuum the liner. Silver liner gets hand wiped where accessible.

  4. Sanitize the blower wheel housing and wiring.

  5. Vacuum out the condensate drain line and pan.

  6. Add Algae Tabs to help prevent re-contamination.







When removing the wires from the blower wheel assembly, make sure to use tape to mark the different wires or take a picture for reconnecting. You cannot get the wires on the blower motor assembly wet when cleaning. Make sure to connect the appropriate wires back together to avoid overload. The post-cleaning check will ensure that the unit is running prior to leaving the customers’ house. If air is coming out the return, it is likely that you wired the motor incorrectly.




When removing an evaporator coil and cleaning from a split A/C unit, be sure to cover refrigerant lines with duct tape prior to applying water.  Remember to make sure the coil is rinsed properly, prior to reinstallation. When reinstalling the coil to the pan, make sure that the pitch of the pan is correct to allow the water to flow out. Make sure that the connection to the condensate line is properly secured in place and sealed. You must adequately rinse the coil cleaner. Don’t spray coil cleaner on the insulation.




Ductwork has 2 barriers – the AIR barrier and the VAPOR barrier.  The AIR barrier stops the air from escaping and the VAPOR barrier stops the condensation.  When sealing ducts for permanent air tightness, you must first identify and seal the AIR barrier and then the VAPOR barrier, in that order.

Permanent Repairs: The mastic method.

  1. Clean the area to be sealed.

  2. Apply spray adhesive and let tacky for 1 minute.

  3. Duct and/or metal tape the closure.

  4. Mesh the area to be sealed using self-adhesive fiber mesh.

  5. Mastic the area to be sealed using a thin layer of mastic.

  6. Air to remain off for 4-6 hours or until dry.

Temporary Repairs: Foil tape only.          Foil tape is only a temporary material to be used on air handlers, filter cabinets or anywhere on the HVAC system where access will be required in the future.




 Sheet metal ducts are either internally lined or externally wrapped.


Internally Lined:               Seal internally lined ductwork by using the mastic method as above.  The air barrier is the sheet metal, which is readily accessible from the outside of the ductwork, and vapor barrier is the inside liner.


Externally Wrapped:                      Before you can seal externally wrapped ductwork, you must carefully peel back the outer layer of insulation to reach the sheet metal AIR barrier beneath.  Once you have exposed the sheet metal, seal with the mastic method (as above) and carefully replace the insulation to form a continuous VAPOR barrier.




Flexible ducts are constructed of a plastic inner AIR barrier lining with a foil and insulation outer VAPOR barrier.  You must gently peel back the foil and insulation barrier to reach the plastic AIR barrier underneath.  Once you have exposed the plastic inner lining, seal with the mastic method (as above) and carefully replace the insulation and foil to form a continuous VAPOR barrier.




Fiber glass ductwork, whether rectangle or round, is constructed of compressed fiberglass (VAPOR barrier) with a foil outer backing (AIR barrier).  This is the same as internally lined sheet metal where you seal the foil outer backing which is readily accessible from the outside of the ductwork (the VAPOR barrier is inside).




Most commonly, mobile homes and trailers are conditioned with package units, connected to the ductwork using flexible ductwork.  Unless the ducts are in the attic as in a house, the ductwork is simply pans attached to the underside of the structure and the air conditioning units feed the pans in the floor.  The air is introduced into the residence by holes cut into the pan and grilles affixed.




Two of the largest air leak areas on an air handler are the filter and service access panels.  Additional areas for leakage are the penetrations for condensate, electrical wires and refrigeration lines.   The outer cabinet is the only air barrier and repairs should form a continuous air barrier.




This area is under some of the highest pressure in the duct system.  Often, leakage occurs when the air handler meets the supply plenum and where the duct runs connect to the supply plenum.  Seams and joints can leak due to tape failure.  It is important to identify the material you are working with to make the appropriate repairs using the mastic method.




Supply and return connections are made with collars for flex duct, tabs for metal ducts and tape for fiberboard.  Tab collars leak where the collar meets the plenum/trunk line and the inner lining of flex meets flange.  Since most connections are taped, tape failure can be critical.  Repairs are to be made using the mastic method.





Drops or runs are smaller versions of trunk lines.  Fiberboard ductwork is put together in 4’ sections; sheet metal in 5’ sections.  When sealing sections of ductwork, seal all around each 4’ or 5’ section (including underneath) and each lateral seam with the mastic method.




A “Y” or a “T” connection is usually made of 3 sections of ductwork.  Leakage will occur at each of the connections, usually with flexible duct.  If the “Y” or “T” and connecting ducts are of different materials, it is important that the air barriers for all materials become a continuous air barrier.  Reducing collars are used to downsize sections of ductwork.  Again, make sure that you create a continuous AIR barrier.




These can be made of duct board or sheet metal.  The space between the cans/boots and the wallboard is a potential leakage site and can also draw contaminants into the occupied space.  Duct board cans/boots mostly rest against the ceiling or wallboard and is held in place with a metal clip (most times not).  If the can/boot is against a truss in the attic, you must seal to the truss and then to the wallboard.  Remember, creating a continuous AIR barrier is that you are doing.




The pan underneath a mobile home or trailer is constructed of sheet metal and the ends are simply crimped tight.  These types of ends can leak, especially with aluminum pans.  To create a new end cap, simply cut a piece of ductboard the same size as the pan and insert this after the last grill on each side.  Seal with the mastic method.




The return box is usually made of duct board and as with duct board cans/boots, it simply rests against the ceiling or wallboard.  Repairs to these boxes should be made the same as cans/boots.  Many return boxes are constructed to fit in between trusses; seal as necessary to truss then to ceiling or wallboard.




Junction boxes, distribution boxes or transitions are used to properly distribute air throughout the system.  The boxes are held together with tape which is a concern and the flex is attached to the collars with tape also.  Sealing of junction boxes is to be done the same as a supply plenum.




Return platforms have many potential leakage sites.  It can leak because the cavity is not airtight (i.e. wall cavity air is being drawn in).  In most cases, it is simply rough construction surrounded by unconditioned air.  All seams and openings provide opportunity for leakage.

  • Seal the wall cavity space by accessing through the return grill (use duct board or foil tape if gap is too large to mesh)

  • Seal all connections of plywood, including any openings in wall cavity (behind grill)

  • An unfinished platform return requires you to install duct board with the foil side facing IN using glue and mesh and mastic to complete. 

  • Seal the return plenum through the drywall side.




The air handler is usually connected to the return platform with its own weight.  A small slither of sealer may be present.  Leakage sealing should be made in a manner that will not obstruct the service or maintenance of the unit (i.e. do not mastic filter or service access panels).




It is common to run the refrigerant lines through a pipe to the outside unit.  Leakage here can bring in outside air through the chase line and into the occupied space.




The return plenum can be under the most pressure in the duct system.  As with the supply plenums, the leaks are caused by tape failure.  Again, it is important to identify the type of material used so that you can create a continuous AIR barrier.




When an air handler is installed in a closet, the closet becomes the return plenum.  All leaks in the floor or walls or ceiling become duct leaks.  Holes for electrical wiring, thermostat wires, plumbing and circuit breakers become large air leaks under pressure.  Remember, create a continuous AIR barrier.




Many wall cavities are used as return ducts – the problem is that they are not airtight.  With a package unit, the return space in the wall is used to return air back to the unit.  This space is often not sealed from the wall cavities leading up into the attic and can therefore introduce attic air back to the package unit.  Seal with duct board down each side of the extended wall cavity, using glue on the rear side and facing the foil side of the duct board INTO the return.  Use the mastic method to seal the joints.




To estimate:      Determine where the grill is to be located.

                                                Is there sufficient access in the attic to install?

How far is it from the area to be tapped off to where the grill will be installed.

What size grill.

What directional on the grill: 2-way (ceiling), 3-way (ceiling), 4-way (ceiling) / 2-way (wall).

Any additional materials: Panduit straps, staple gun, etc.

What size flex and connecting collars?


To do the job:

  1. Locate where the grill will go. One person in the attic and one person inside the home.

  2. Press a screwdriver through the ceiling in the center of where the grill will be located.

  3. The person in the attic will hold the can over the specified area so that the person inside the home can start to cut away the drywall to get the lips of the boot through. When cutting drywall, both persons are to use at a minimum N95 dust masks and eye protection as drywall dust is very fine. The person in the attic will be able to best tell if the boot is straight by lining it up with the rafters in the attic. The person in the home needs to cut the drywall piece by piece until the lips of the can fit snugly and the can is straight.

  4. Install the grill as soon as you have the positioning of the can correct. This will secure the can for when you attach the ductwork.

  5. Use the collar as a template and cut the access in the top of the can. Attach the collar first and secure, then attach ductwork and secure. If the collars for the ducts are equipped with dampers, these need to be kept visible as they will need to be adjusted for correct airflow. The lever needs to be visible over both the air and vapor barriers. At base of boot (by the attic floor), mastic all possible leaks.

  6. Locate where access from duct system will be and cut access hole. If the collars for the ducts are equipped with dampers, these need to be kept visible as they will need to be adjusted for correct airflow. The lever needs to be visible over both the air and vapor barriers.

  7. At this point all ductwork is connected. Be sure that the air flow is sufficient.

  8. Clean up any mess (drywall dust and fragments) that you made while installing the grill. You must always leave the customers’ home as clean as when you arrived.


An air duct inspection is a visual examination to assess the presence of dirt, obstructions, damage, air leakage, excess moisture and microbial contamination that might affect system performance or occupant health and comfort. The inspection will identify what type of ductwork is being used, the size and length of the ductwork and allow for recommendations to be made for cleaning, remediation or replacement of the ductwork based on these criteria.

During a HVAC duct inspection, all attempts are made to show the customer any sub-standard conditions. If the location is not accessible by the customer, pictures will be taken to show the customer what is occurring.

  1. Start by inspecting the return duct and return plenum box, if the system has one, making note of any substandard conditions or areas of concern, as well as what type of filtration is being used.

  2. Several supply vent covers will be removed and inspected. Inspect inside the supply duct and supply boot to determine the type of ductwork, what level of contamination exists if any and if the supply boot is properly sealed.

  3. Visually inspect the supply plenum for cleanliness and if it is properly sealed.

  4. A visual audit of the exterior portion of the ductwork, whether in an attic or above a drop ceiling, will determine if the ductwork is sealed properly at the connection points and if any duct leakage is occurring through the use of a smoke pencil and positive pressurization of the duct system.

Additional areas inspected include, bathroom exhausts and dryer exhaust connection points as well as the air handling unit. The AHU components include the blower wheel and housing, the unit insulation, the coil, drain pan and drain line.

After the inspection, the customer will be given a detailed condition report of the system along with recommendation for cleaning, remediation or replacement as required to return the system to like new conditions.



STOP: Take your jewelry off.


Always have your gauges, thermometer and tools in hand prior to greeting the customer. Never use the customers’ tools.

  1. Ask the location of the thermostat, air handler and condenser.

  2. Make certain that the unit is working prior to proceeding with the tune-up by checking the operation of the thermostat heating and cooling cycles.

  3. Turn the unit on and take a temperature reading at the return and supply plenums.

  4. If the temperature is greater than 62 degrees Fahrenheit or you have less than a 16 TD, the unit may not be working properly.

  5. Check air flow through the return to the coil.

  6. Go to the condenser and locate the high and low-pressure lines. The smallest copper line entering the condenser is the high side (liquid line) and the bigger copper line entering the condenser is the low side (vapor line).

  7. Check the King valves and Schrader valves for leaks prior to attaching gauges by feeling and listening for leaks.

Attach the gauges to the refrigerant lines as follows:

  • Connect the red hose to the port of the high side.

  • Connect the blue hose to the port of the low side.

  • R-22                       Red hose – 200 to 275

Blue hose – 65 to 75

  • R410A                   Red hose – 270 to 325

Blue hose – 125 +/-5

The above pressures are temperature dependent. The PSI of the high and low side lines will vary with the outside and house temperatures.

If the high side pressure is greater than the above recommendations, then one or more of the following could be true:

  • Compressor is overcharged with refrigerant. Recover excess refrigerant.

  • Partial or full blockage at the Orifice or metering device. Take down the system and replace.

  • Liquid line drier or vapor line drier is clogged or defective. Take down the system and replace.

  • Condensing coil is dirty. Clean condensing coil.

If the low side pressure is greater than the above recommendations, then one or more of the following could be true:

  • Compressor is overcharged with refrigerant. Recover excess refrigerant.

  • Valves on the compressor are bad. Replace compressor.

If the low side pressure is less than the above recommendations, then one or more of the following could be true:

  • There could be a leak. A/C systems are closed systems. If the system is low on refrigerant it had to of leaked out. Find the leak, repair and recharge the system.

  • The evaporator coil could be dirty or iced up. Clean the evaporator coil.

Make sure all readings taken are written on the invoice, so you can explain them directly to the customer. This protects the customer, the technician and the company from any misunderstandings. Write it down. Talk is cheap.




Check condenser electrical components and hardware:

  • Visually inspect the contactor and surrounding wires. To check the contactor, unplug both low voltage wires. Using multi-meter check the contactor. A beep means it’s good, no beep it’s bad.

  • Replace the contactor if:

  1. The contactor points look burnt

  2. The condenser doesn’t run

  3. Any burnt, corroded, melted or worn wires to the contactor

  • Visually inspect the capacitor and surrounding wire. Capacitors have different ratings. If you replace it, be sure to use the correct one. If you replace the capacitor with a new one, do not install a hard start.

  • Replace the capacitor if:

  1. The capacitor looks swollen

  2. Fluid is leaking from the capacitor

  3. The pressure hole on the top is blown

  • Measure voltage and amp draw on motor and compressor.

  • Visually inspect the control board.

  • Tighten all electrical connections.

  • Inspect the condenser coil and clean.

  • Re-energize unit.

Check air handler electrical components and hardware:

  • Inspect the safety overflow devise or float switch. Replace if the rocker arm of the float switch is wet or corroded, the plastic body is cracked, the 24-volt wiring to the switch has loose connections or the safety devise doesn’t shut the unit off.

  • Inspect unit disconnect or breaker and shut the unit off. 240 volts is supplied to the AHU when energized.

  • Pull AHU disconnect.

  • Visually inspect blower wheel and evaporator coil for cleanliness.

  • Check blower wheel for excess play.

  • Inspect condensate drain, vacuum drain line (includes algaecide tabs).

  • Visually inspect control board for burnt marks and tighten all electrical connections. Replace the 5-amp fuse on the circuit board if there is no 24-volt power to the system.

  • Inspect the blower relay. Replace if the relay looks corroded or burnt, blower runs constantly or not at all.

  • Inspect the heat sequencer. Replace if the wires to the heater element look burnt or if the 24-volt coil (bottom two terminals 1, 2) has no continuity.

  • Visually inspect the transformer. Replace if it smells burnt or if it’s not stepping down the 240 volts to 24 volts.

  • Visually inspect the ductwork. A smoke pencil can be used to verify leakage while the unit is running.

Furnace or Heater Inspection:  The pressure switch/fan limit switch behind the induced blower motor must be clean in order for the furnace to operate. If the furnace is not working, check to make sure the pressure switch is clean and that the transformer is working (not burnt). Always turn the breakers off before replacing any parts – serious injury could result if you don’t.


Check the electrical components at the Furnace or Heater

  • Check the temperature at the plenum. It should be 110 degrees Fahrenheit or higher.

  • Use your Carbon Monoxide Tester to see if there are high levels of the gas in the home. Old furnaces/heaters emit high levels of carbon monoxide. If the carbon monoxide levels are too high, change the unit out.

 Visually inspect the primary Heat Exchanger. Replace Furnace if:

  • The smell of gas is in the house.

  • If you visually see a crack.

  • Clean the Heat Exchanger if the flame to the pilot tubes are yellow or orange.

Visually inspect the Gas Valve and Igniter System. Replace if:

  • The pressure is not high enough – the flame is not reaching the heat exchanger.

  • If you replace either, you must also change the Thermo-Couple.

Visually inspect the Blower Systems – 1. The Induced Blower Motor which exhausts the gas fumes out of the home and 2. The Blower Motor which blows the hot or cold air to the supply vents in the home. The Furnace could have a case coil for a/c on top. Replace Blower if:

  • Either of the Blower Motors are burnt.

  • If Blower Motor will not operate, check the capacitor and replace if necessary.

Visually inspect the PCB (Printed Circuit Board). If this PCB is dirty, the furnace may not operate. Replace if:

  • The PCB board looks burnt or corroded.

Check for Carbon Monoxide Gas. If too high, then:

  • The Induced Blower Motor may be turning too slow.

  • The Heat Exchanger may be cracked. Change out furnace.

Check Flame Tubes. Replace if:

  • Tubes are burnt or corroded.

  • Tubes have holes in them.

Check Spark Plugs – part of ignition system. Replace if:

  • Plug is white or discolored.




Hard Start:          The benefits of a hard start installed in the unit is that it saves the compressor from high amp overload during start-up.


Installation Steps:

  • Turn off the power! Serious injury or death could result.

  • Remove hard start from the package

  • There are 2 black wires connected to the hard start

  • Connect both black wires to the capacitor for the compressor. For a 2-pole capacitor, 1 wire on the right terminal and 1 wire on the left terminal. For a 3-pole capacitor, 1 wire is attached to the herm post and the other wire is connected to the common post.

  • Secure the hard start to the wiring harness with the clip provided.

  • Turn the unit on and take readings to make sure it’s working properly.

Time Delay:        The benefits of a time delay are that when the compressors running and is interrupted by a power outage, lightning strike or power surge, the time delay protects the compressor from starting up right away. This delay allows the compressors head pressure to equalize thereby protecting it from fatal damage.

Installation Steps:

  • Turn off the power! Serious injury or death could result.

  • Remove time delay from package.

  • Cut the 24-volt red wire on the contactor in the middle and strip both ends.

  • Take either red wire and connect it to either wire on the time delay.

  • Take the other red wire and connect it to the other wire on the time delay.

  • Secure it with a screw thru the middle of the time delay to the condenser.

  • Turn the unit on and take readings to make sure it’s working properly.



For trained techs only. Determine sq. ft. Charge $1.00 per sq. ft.




Recap Sheets:                   The crew leader is responsible for making sure a recap sheet is handed in with sales paperwork each day, recording hours worked and sales made.  If working in the office, the employee is responsible for recording their hours and recap sheet to be submitted to the Office Manager.


Additional information that must be recorded on your recap sheets is any damage to the customers’ home, equipment or vehicle; any errands that you were sent on.


Invoices:                              Paperwork must be completed at each customer’s home.  For duct cleaning work, the “Field Service Data Report” (on the right side of the invoice) MUST be completed for the office and the client to understand the condition of their equipment.  If a customer calls back for additional services, we have the relevant information.


Commissions:                   (Crew leaders) All sales to be considered for commissions must be recorded on your daily recap sheets.  If, for any reason, you have not received commission for a sale, you first check the recap sheet for that day.  If the sale is recorded, see the Accounting Manager.


If you are selling a/c equipment, inline HEPA filtration systems, you MUST collect a 50% deposit prior to proceeding with the installation of the sale.


When add on sales are accepted and you cannot perform the work during the same appointment, call the office to reschedule the work.  You cannot schedule without calling the office.


Selling filters:                    When filters are sold to our customers, we need approx. 10-14 WORKING DAYS to build.  You must measure carefully (to within 1/8”) and write on paperwork.  Commissions cannot be paid on filters measured incorrectly. NOT OFFERED.


Pricing:                                 You are not authorized to offer discounts or deductions to customers.  All pricing will come directly from the office.  Pricing is based on the pricing lists.


Receiving payment:                        Unless otherwise specified on your paperwork, payment is expected from your customer upon the completion of your work.  You do not have the authority to grant credit and any requests for credit or billing of the account MUST be referred to the Office Manager.


Before the customer signs off on your paperwork, make sure that you perform the last walk-around and inform the customer that by walking around, you are making sure that the grills are all up and that the home is clean, and they are signing that they accept this.  If a return trip is necessary, a fee is charged.  The invoice MUST be signed by your customer prior to leaving the job.  If you are working for a 3rd party, then that 3rd party is to sign that the work is done.  If performing commercial work, paperwork still needs to be filled out for your job and a signature must be collected at the end of the work.


Mileage and Petty Cash

Reimbursement:                             All petty cash expenses require a valid receipt to be reimbursed.  Out of pocket expenses and petty cash shall be refunded to you when expenses are recorded on an Expense Report.  Mileage applicable shall be reimbursed when recorded on a Mileage Report.  Expenses will not be reimbursed without receipts.


Overnight Expenses:                      You shall be compensated for overnight expenses to the amount of $25.00/night.  Receipts must accompany any expense reports submitted.  All monies are the responsibility of the project crew leader and that person will be responsible for any discrepancies.




When obtaining supplies from the office, the Warehouse or Office, a Manager must sign the required supplies to your truck on the supplies requirements form. 


Purchase orders are required at all supply houses that we use – supplies cannot be ordered without one.




Preparation: Make sure you have the following.

  • Your sales presentation book.

  • Your brochures and business cards.

  • Your call-in sheet (reviewed).

  • Your company identification tag.

First impression:

  • Appearance – Look in the mirror – would you buy services from yourself?

  • Be on time – if not, call and inform the client that you’re going to be late.

  • Larger, more important clients will have a specific time to meet.

  • Others will have a 1 or 2-hour window.

  • Park on the street (where possible) for residential customers.

  • Is the truck clean and presentable?

  • Is the signage readable to the customer?

Greeting:             The first 60 seconds are the most important time of the entire sales process.

  • Shake hands.

  • Make eye contact.

  • Wipe your feet (residential).

  • Ask permission to place your presentation book on their table or counter top.

Build a Relationship:      Fact find and qualify.

  • What are their issues or concerns? Odors, allergies, illness, dust, dirty vents, equipment performance, etc.

  • What part of the building is affected?

  • What time of day does the problem occur?

  • How old is the building?

  • Have the ducts ever been cleaned before?

Write down this information. Listening is very important to both solving the problem and building your relationship with the client.




If the job is priced less than $2500, pricing can be developed and delivered onsite. Anything over $2500 will need to be approved by the Operations Manager.


Authority levels:

Under $25